Friday, November 21, 2008

Day 9 16th November Siem Reap (Cambodia) to Kampong Chhnang (Cambodia) 44Km

Day 9 16th November Siem Reap (Cambodia) to Kampong Chhnang (Cambodia) 44Km


The days at Siem Reap were a detour and it would take another boat journey to get us back on track. The plan this time was to cycle from the hotel to the causeway to catch a fast boat to take us to Kampong Chhnang.




We had to set off early at 6am as we had a 15Km ride to the causeway and the boat was leaving at 7am. Our van had already left at 5.30am to take a road route so the hotel would provide a van to take our luggage, whilst we cycled. Because we were leaving before they started serving breakfast the hotel would also provide a packed breakfast to eat on the boat.


As usual the start was not a perfect. The hotel was late in providing the breakfast, so we set of at a brisk pace to ensure we did not miss the boat. It was already a hot morning and by the time we had sprinted the 15KM we were all very hot and sweaty. We had not bothered putting cycling gear on for the short journey, so it was worse. Normally we start late because water bottles need filling, or sun tan lotion needs applying or gears need oiling or a myriad of other reasons.


When we arrived at the causeway as we stopped by the boat several women came over to sell us breakfast, since we had ours it was a lost cause. The key when making these sorts of changeovers is to ensure you track your luggage. In my case I watched the suitcase go on and retrieved my bag, with laptop, money, passport and various creams and lotions and sat downstairs. This boat was air-conditioned, the other option was to grab a space on deck. We then waited and waited. The boat filled up and 7am came and went, we eventually left 40minutes later.

The clouds at that time in the morning were a steely gray, but the sun still shone through and anyone on the roof would need plenty of sunscreen.




Our luggage went in with the engine, our bikes were lashed to railings along the top of the boat.



As we were in open water it was a more boring journey than the trip to Siem Reap, most people settled down to read. The seats in the cabin were not easy to sleep on though.




For those on the roof, it was pleasant in the open air, but the boat's engine was very noisy and made conversation difficult. Most people just lay and soaked up the strong sun.




The journey took several hours and there was little to look at, there were bits of vegetation floating on the very calm water though.



Here is a video taken from the boat, as you can see it is pretty featureless. The engine sounded a lot louder on the boat.




At one point the boat stopped and we assumed we were waiting to get into dock, Chris came running down to chivy us along, we were transferring to a small boat. This meant finding our luggage, which was buried in the bowels of the engine room, ensuring our bikes got transferred and in my case ensuring I had my laptop bag. Then nipping onto a small boat to get to shore. The boat did have life jackets though.



As usual there were various fishing boats buzzing around on the water.




Once tied up we then had the reverse palaver of moving the luggage and bikes onto land, in this case along a rickety plank. Our van had not turned up and the luggage was loaded onto motorcycles and we cycled the few kilometres to the hotel. I carried my laptop bag myself, the luggage laden motorbikes looked very precarious.
The town is not really a tourist spot so when the turned into the hotel compound it was a pleasant surprise. Although a simple hotel the rooms were pleasant and we had a small balcony with table and chairs on our floor.



We popped out to the best restaurant in town for a quick lunch, there were other westerners there as well which was a surprise. Our table was near the pavement and a dog came sniffing round to pick up food form the floor If that was the best restaurant then I would hated to have seen the worst. I had chicken curry and rice what I discovered is that they just randomly chop up the chicken into pieces and then cook it. Also the chickens are pretty scrawny things so it takes a lot of effort to get any meet and you end up spitting bone fragments out.


Before going back to the hotel to pick up Mary for a ride around the countryside we also checked out another place in case it offered a better alternative. It did look a bit better and was the place we ended up for dinner.






Our afternoon ride took us mainly along the side roads (dirt tracks), it seemed that this was a more prosperous place than Pailin and some of the places we saw on the Pailin road. We came across a pottery "factory" and invited ourselves in to have a look around. They were charming and quite happy for us to take pictures.



The pots are handmade and used all around, we saw pots on cow pulled wagons on the roads.


A group of ladies are forming part of the pot in clay, Cambodians always seemed cheerful and they carried on working as we tried to communicate and took pictures.




I think that Chris lives in Cambodia and runs a travel Business because he is an incorrigible flirt. His Cambodian language skills seem to centre around chatting up girls and ordering different types of beer. After telling this girl she had a pretty smile had got her to stop hiding her face and here he is showing her the picture he took.




Once again the scenery was idyllic, with blue skies. There were more animals around as well. As I was cycling behind Mary a cow in the road reared up and causing its tether rope to stretch across the road, knocking Mary of her bike, onto the knee she had previously injured. I was lucky and managed to stop just in time.





Later on we came across another family run pot making operation. They make a batch of pots. this lot took around a month then they fire them by lighting a fire in the middle, as we watched they put rice stalks onto the fire causing plumes of yellowy smoke.




One of the extra challenges we had to watch out for on the narrow tracks was these wagons, they tend to lumber along and need passing with care.






We caused a lot of interest as we passed by, sometimes the kids could be heard shouting "barang, barang" to warn their friends up the track to come out and look at us. They seem to have a foreigner radar.




We passed a recreational area kids were gathering and watched as a man washed his water buffaloes and himself.




It is not unusual to see Buddhist Temples dotted around. Generally there is quite large compound with the temple at one end and the living quarters adjacent. I took this picture of the robes drying in the sun. In the foreground is a well, I discovered from Tonyet that over five hundred villagers were murdered and thrown down the well during the Pol Pot era. It is no longer used and is kept as a memorial to those who died. Once again a stark reminder of man's inhumanity to man.




Here is the temple entrance.




On the way back it was tricky finding dry path, round here the paths get bogged down during the rainy season. These are lotus flowers.



One path took us to the local car wash - well motorbike wash. They drive into the lake and wash the orange dust off - it must be a never ending job as I cannot get rid of it from my clothes when I try hand washing them.




When we got back to the town we stopped at the market to buy some bandages for Mary's knee and to get a couple of CDs. During the stay at Siem Reap I had manged to retrieve Jim's deleted photographs and the next step was to write them onto disk for him to take back to the US.





We went out for dinner but there were loads of insects around and I wore long trousers for the first time for a while during the trip I also sprayed loads of the insect repellent on my clothes and skin.


It was then back to the hotel for another early start to cycle off. I did smile when I noticed the room rates advertised on my bedroom door. I paid the same amount for internet access at the last hotel


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